Reviewed · OLD TOWN WALKING TOURS
Curious Tales of the Royal Mile – Private Walking Tour
Old Edinburgh has a talent for turning real events into strange little legends. This private walk follows the Royal Mile and the tight closes and back courts that branch off it, with Dr Moray Grigor turning the city into a storybook of odd arrests, political spats, and very human chaos.
I love how the tour leans into the funny, specific stuff, not vague dates. I also like the pacing, because Moray keeps things lively and easy to follow, even for families, and you can usually move at your group’s comfort level.
One drawback to plan around: this is an outdoor walk that depends on good weather, so you’ll want a backup outfit for wind and rain, and you may need to be flexible with timing if conditions change.
Curious Tales of the Royal Mile, the odd story route across Edinburgh
- Dr Moray Grigor tells the stories as a true Edinburgh local, with a doctor’s calm and a storyteller’s grin.
- The Royal Mile plus the closes means you get off the main strip and into the lanes where the city feels older and tighter.
- Real oddities, not just landmarks, like an arrested pet blackbird in 1736 and a washerwoman’s tough demand involving philosopher David Hume.
- Stops built around famous places, from Edinburgh Castle area to St Giles’ Cathedral and Canongate Kirk, with commentary at each.
- Private tour feel, so your group sets the pace, and kids can be accommodated without turning it into a lecture marathon.
Walking the Royal Mile the way Edinburgh intended, tight closes, sharp stories

If you only do Edinburgh by bus or by broad street views, you miss the town’s secret engine: the narrow passageways. This tour starts just below the castle area and works you downward along the world-famous Royal Mile, but the real magic is how you duck into alleys and back courts. That’s where the city compresses time, and where these stories actually make sense.
Moray’s approach is simple. He brings you to a place, then he gives you the weird backstory behind it, the kind that sounds made up until you hear the details. It helps that he has been collecting tales for years, and that he draws from an older Edinburgh voice, publisher and author Robert Chambers, who was already gathering and sharing these sorts of anecdotes back in 1824.
For me, the best part is the mix: political clashes, petty rivalries, and everyday oddities all share the same stage. You’ll hear about Edinburgh Castle’s most deadly enemy, Robert the Bruce, but you’ll also hear how small and bizarre moments got remembered. That blend is what makes the walk feel like you’re learning the city’s personality, not just memorizing a timeline.
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The value question: is $130.75 per person worth it?

At $130.75 per person for a 4-5 hour private outdoor tour, you’re paying for more than directions. You’re paying for a guide who knows how to make the city’s “why” click, and for the convenience of a schedule built around your group.
A few details make this feel like good value if you like story-driven touring. It’s private, so you’re not squeezed into a big crowd moving as one unit. You also get a mobile ticket, and there are group discounts, which can matter if you’re traveling with friends or family.
Timing also signals demand. The tour averages around 145 days booked in advance, which usually means two things: it’s popular, and dates can disappear quickly during busy seasons. If you have a flexible itinerary, you can still find openings, but it’s smarter to lock in early.
Meeting at Castlehill and the “go off the main road” rhythm

The tour meets at Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1, and it ends near Canongate Kirk in the Canongate, Edinburgh EH8. You’re not just walking from point A to point B. You’re constantly changing your angle, slipping into side lanes, and resetting your view so you don’t get bored looking at the same facades.
The day is structured around short stops where the commentary does the heavy lifting. Most segments are in the 10 to 30 minute range, with a longer stretch along the Royal Mile itself. That means you get time to absorb, then you move, then you absorb again.
Practical tip: since it’s outdoors, wear layers you can adjust quickly. Edinburgh weather loves to switch moods. If the sky turns, you’ll feel it more on cobbles and in narrow lanes than you would in a museum.
Also, admission to the stops is listed as free in the itinerary notes, so you’re not paying separate entry fees as you go. Coffee and tea aren’t included, though there is an optional refreshment stop if you want to grab something warm.
Stop 1: Edinburgh Castle area stories, escapes, appeals, gang fights, water woes

Your tour kicks off near Edinburgh Castle, which is fitting because the whole Old Town vibe grows out of that elevation. Even when you’re not inside the castle, the area gives you context. The castle looms over the Royal Mile, and it sets up the power struggle energy behind many of the tales you’ll hear.
At this first stop, the stories lean into major moments and messy consequences. You’ll hear about Bonnie Dundee and an escape from Edinburgh, plus Allan Ramsay’s court appeal. Those are the kinds of stories that make the castle feel less like a monument and more like a chessboard.
Then Moray shifts to street-level drama, with huge gang fights and even water woes. That last detail matters more than it sounds. In old cities, water and access shaped daily life, and it shaped conflict. When you hear that woven into the city story early on, you start reading Edinburgh like a system, not just a collection of sights.
Time here is about 20 minutes, so don’t expect a long sit-down. Think of it as a strong opener, enough to set your brain into “curious mode.”
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Stop 2: The Royal Mile’s contradictions, rebellious pets and fake news
From the castle area, you move into a stretch of Edinburgh where everyday life and politics collide. This is where the tour leans hard into oddities that feel modern, especially the “fake news” angle. You might laugh at the idea, but it also points to a real pattern: rumor spreads fast, and Edinburgh loved a good story.
This segment includes talk of rebellious pets and couples at political loggerheads. There’s also a focus on two-faced businessmen and philosopher-chefs. It’s playful, but it’s also a reminder that people have always found ways to profit, posture, and survive.
If you like stories that connect back to human behavior, you’ll probably enjoy this stop a lot. It’s less about one grand event and more about the city’s habit of turning daily tension into anecdote.
You’ll be here about 30 minutes. It’s enough time for Moray to paint the picture, but not so long that you lose the thread.
Stop 3: Advocate’s Close, where “little girls” and judges add chaos
One of the tour’s biggest strengths is how it uses places like Advocate’s Close to bring you into the city’s narrow-world architecture. These closes feel like Edinburgh’s private corridors, and they’re perfect for stories that involve mischief, small power plays, and unexpected reversals.
The tales at this stop cover lame, gangfighting would-be authors, astounded judges, and very mischievous little girls. That combination is exactly why this tour works. It treats the city as a comedy of errors, not a stern textbook.
This is also one of the shorter stops, about 10 minutes. That speed keeps the pace lively and helps you avoid the “I’m walking but the story is gone” feeling.
If you want a tip for getting more out of it: listen closely for the character details. A close like this is made for point-blank storytelling. Moray’s delivery is built for that kind of attention.
Stop 4: St Giles’ Cathedral stories, debt, silver spoons, and prayer-stools
Strolling to St Giles’ Cathedral shifts the mood toward big civic religion, but the stories stay sharp and strange. This stop is about 30 minutes, giving you time to hear the big ideas without racing.
Here, you’ll hear tales of kings in debt and romantic silver spoons. That might sound light, but it’s a reminder that wealth and romance can be tangled up in politics in very real ways. Then come the more comic details, like church prayer-stools being thrown.
Moray also shares an unusual resting place for the city’s most famous preacher. That kind of detail is what makes a cathedral stop feel like part of the neighborhood story rather than just a beautiful exterior.
A balanced note: cathedrals can be busy, and you’ll be outdoors and moving in and out of the flow. Bring patience and keep your group close. The tour is structured, but you’ll still be sharing public space.
Stop 5: Along the Royal Mile, theatre riots, funny dances, rebellion

This is the tour’s longest single block, about 1 hour on the Royal Mile itself. It’s the stretch where you get the classic Edinburgh view, but the commentary keeps it from turning into a photo walk.
You’ll hear about theatre riots and rebellion, plus raving beauties and dull dances. The “dull dances” detail is worth keeping in mind. It’s easy to assume the past was all glamour. This tour reminds you that people complained back then too, even about entertainment.
There are also references to novel financial products. That’s a great anchor for modern travelers because it puts old scandals in a recognizable frame. When you hear stories about money schemes next to a gorgeous street, you get a clearer sense of how risk and hype work in any era.
This segment also includes full-scale rebellion in the mix. That keeps the city’s conflict energy alive even as you’re walking the most famous promenade. You’ll feel the contrast between the Royal Mile’s elegance and the messier human stories layered beneath it.
Stop 6: Canongate Kirk, poets, royal favourites, and eccentric economists
The tour finishes near Canongate Kirk, right around the lower Royal Mile area. Ending here feels right, because the Canongate has that sense of stepping out of the most crowded storyline and into the quieter edges of Edinburgh’s past.
The stories at this stop include vicious poets and tragic Royal favourites. You also get eccentric economists, which is a fun pairing with the rest of the tone. It’s the kind of joke that also makes a point. People in positions of influence always justify themselves with big ideas, even when the results are ugly.
This stop is about 25 minutes. By then, you’ll likely have a stronger feel for how the city’s geography supports the stories. You’ll recognize patterns in how people moved, how power gathered, and how rumors traveled.
Practical add-on: in one conversation shared with the guide, there was a mention of Rizzio’s grave near Canongate Kirk as a story-related place worth seeing. If you want a little extra after the main route, ask Moray if there’s time to point it out. It may not be part of every route, but it’s the kind of request that can turn your walk into a custom story route.
Who this tour is really for
This is a good fit if you want Edinburgh that feels personal and specific. You’ll enjoy it most if you like anecdotes, character-driven stories, and learning how real people behaved under pressure.
It’s also a solid choice for families. In particular, Moray has experience accommodating kids, keeping the pace workable, and staying informative without losing the fun. If you’re traveling with children, you can ask for a slower rhythm, and it’s not treated like a problem.
If you prefer strict facts only, this may feel too narrative. But the tone is more “historical curiosity with good storytelling” than “campfire exaggeration.” The details are odd on purpose, because Edinburgh has always made oddness worth remembering.
What to bring and how to make the most of it
You’re on foot for about 4-5 hours, mostly outdoors, with frequent short listening stops. Wear shoes that handle uneven stones and narrow lanes. Bring a light rain layer, even if the morning looks clear.
Because coffee and tea are optional and not included, plan to have water handy. If you know you get hungry while walking, you might want a snack before you start, then treat the optional refreshment stop as a bonus.
To make the stories stick, try this method. When you hear a name or a bizarre scenario, repeat it in your head as you move to the next stop. The closeness between stops helps your brain connect the story to the setting.
Booking smart: when to reserve and what to expect on the day
This tour is private, meaning only your group participates. That’s great if you want a calmer feel and you’d rather not compete for attention with a large crowd.
Confirmation is received within 48 hours of booking, subject to availability. Since the tour averages around 145 days booked in advance, booking early is wise if you’re traveling during peak dates.
It also runs within opening hours listed as 8:00 AM to 3:00 PM. So if you’re a late-day traveler, check your schedule before you commit.
Finally, it requires good weather. If the weather cancels the tour, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund. That’s not a small thing in Scotland, so it’s worth taking it seriously.
Should you book Curious Tales of the Royal Mile?
Book it if you want Old Town Edinburgh to feel like a living story, not a list of monuments. You’ll likely love the humor, the specificity, and the way Moray uses closes and back courts to give the city shape.
Don’t book it if you dislike outdoor walking for half a day or if you want a strictly factual, quiet museum-style experience. This tour is built for movement and talk, and the weather factor is real.
Also, if you’re the kind of traveler who enjoys hearing why a place has a reputation, not just what it looks like, this one fits perfectly. With Moray Grigor as your guide and the route ending at Canongate Kirk, you get a satisfying arc from the castle’s shadow to the quieter Canongate stories.
If you want a memorable Edinburgh moment that feels different from the usual Royal Mile selfie routine, this tour is one of the better ways to do it.
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